|
|
These notes are designed to provide the proper care for captive box turtles. If you are shopping for a turtle as a pet please buy from a breeder or adopt through your local herpetological society. Please don't become an unknowing advocate for the wild collection of these fascinating reptiles.
The most commonly kept box turtles are:
The eastern box turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina) The three-toed box turtle (Terrapene carolina triunguis) The Gulf Coast box turtle (Terrapene carolina major) The ornate box turtle (Terrapene ornata) "Box turtles are perceived by the general public as being among the hardiest and easiest of reptiles to care for. Perhaps the bright-eyed appearance of healthy box turtles busily clamoring about in its armored home causes us to view them as indestructible. Unfortunately, these perceptions have caused these animals to be among the most neglected reptiles maintained in captivity."
Roger J. Klingeberg, D.V.M. The Box Turtle Manual.
The recognition of diseases in box turtles is very important. Many of the turtles in today's pet trade are wild caught and are always in desperate need of veterinary care. Recognizing the problem/s with your pet box turtle is the first step. The second step is finding a knowledgeable veterinarian. Contact your local Herpetological Society to help find a veterinarian that specializes in reptiles. If this is not an option educate your self the best you can and don't be afraid of questioning your vet. Sometimes you can come across new information before your vet can.
Common Health Problems
Nutritional disorders, parasitic, and bacterial diseases play major roles in the health of newly captive box turtles. The tremendous stress that box turtles go through from being taking from the wild puts their health in jeopardy. By the time these wild caught turtles make it to the pet store many perish. When picking out a pet turtle, pick the most active one. Pick it up make sure it's like picking up paper weight versus an empty shell. The animal should weigh more then it's looks to weigh. Look at the eyes to make sure that they're clear and not swollen. Be sure the nose is clear and the lungs aren't wheezing. If the turtle runs away or pulls it's head in quickly, the responses are good. In time the turtle will get use to you. Make a veterinarian appointment immediately to help rid your new pet of parasites or any on coming health problems.
Nutritional disorders are the major cause of mortality in young box turtles. Nutritional disorders can be easily prevented if the turtles have a balanced diet, plus vitamin and mineral supplements added to every other feeding. Poor nutrition can harbor many different vitamin deficiencies like: Hypovitaminosis A, B, D3 and just the opposite, Hypervitaminosis (excessive) A, E and D. Metabolic bone disease plays a huge part in hatchlings raised in captivity. When feeding your turtles just make sure your thinking about what exactly is being fed to them. Did you add the supplements needed that the food couldn't provide? And most importantly is there enough UVB rays (produces D3) to help the turtles metabolize the calcium intake?
Protozoan and nematode are endo-parasites (internal); tick and mites are ecto-parasites (external), which are all very common in wild collected box turtles. All turtles, even if purchased/adopted from your best friend, who had the animal for years, should have a fecal checked by a veterinarian for parasites. If the turtle is stressed, the parasite can worsen the turtles illness. Your turtle will get more nutrition out of what it eats if worm free versus sharing it's food with freeloading worms.
Bacterial diseases are the major cause of death in captive collections. Wild collected turtles, do to stress, almost always contract some form of illness one way are the other. Most common bacterial diseases are conjunctivitis,necrotic stomatitis "mouth-rot", ear abscesses and respiratory diseases. If caught early enough, bacterial infections can be treated with anti-biotics. These can be prevented with proper hygiene and disinfecting of the turtles environment. Always provide clean sterile water and plenty of the adequate heat and humidity. Please consult your veterinarian for proper diagnosis.
Diet
Wild collected box turtles are usually reluctant to feed. In this case a regular feeding pattern should occur until the animal is feeding regularly; this habit will need to be broke eventually. In the wild, box turtles are opportunistic omnivores there fore variety is important in their diet. Hatchlings and juveniles are largely carnivorous; gradually consuming more plant matter as they grow.
Insect protein can be offer as prepared or live foods items like: canned dog food, cooked chicken, crickets, mealworms, earthworms and newborn pink mice. The percentage of insect protein in the diet depends on the species.
Plant matter and fruits are the largest part of most box turtles diets. The following are some foods recommended: thawed frozen mixed vegetables, tomatoes, broccoli, bananas, peach, apple and any kind of berry. All box turtles love berries!
To insure that all the proper nutrients are taken in be sure to use vitamin/mineral supplements. The usage of supplements is the best way to make sure your turtle isn't skipping over any important nutrients.
Captive Environment Maintenance
Since turtles are reptiles, they depend largely on their environment for proper body temperature. This dependence on ambient temperature is called cold-blooded or exothermal. Keeping the biology of the animal in mind when designing a terrarium with the proper heating and lighting is important. If the temperature is too low, the turtle can not digest food properly or even feel the want to eat and in some cases may cause death or grave illness. If the temperature is too high, the turtle will most certainly dehydrate and die. Ambient daytime temperatures of 72 to 88 degrees with a nighttime drop to no lower than 60 F are appropriate for most box turtles. A spot lamp should be used to create and hot spot of about 95 degrees for the turtle to bask. A place to retreat from the heat is important, so the turtle doesn't over heat and remains comfortable. This type of heat can be obtained through a simple reflector lamp with a 75 wyatt bulb and an under tank heater, in a 50 gallon tank. UVA/B lighting is important for diurnal cycles, and the metabolizing of calcium through the absorption of vitamin D3. If this kind of lighting is not available the turtle, especially if young, can develop Metabolic Bone Disorder. UV bulbs are going to be found in the form of a fluorescent lamp mostly. If you care to spent more money (and it's well worth it), incandescent bulbs are now made with UVA/B in it.
Micro-environments are very important to replicate in captivity. A desert animal can became gravely ill, if the option of hot dry, above ground environment and humid cooler, borrow isn't met. Box turtles over all need moderate to high humidities. Sometimes these higher humidities can be obtained by misting the environment or creating humid borrows. Be careful not to let your turtles get too wet for too long; fungal and bacterial problems can occur when not allowed to dry out. Be sure that fresh water is available at all times. Turtles have a tendency to go to relieve themselves in their water. If a group of turtles are sharing drinking water then infectious diseases can be transmitted very easily, if not kept clean. It is important to research the species you would like to keep. Box turtles aren't for everyone, but their very awarding to care for.
Return to Index
